Retrospective

Looking back on the blogs I have done over the course of this seven week semester, I am glad that I chose the three themes of bars, Santa Maria in Cappella, and the combination of old and new. These three topics gave me another lens through which to see my experiences in Italy. I wanted to choose themes that I would encounter every day, which I definitely did.

Before we left for Rome, Dr. Benson encouraged us during our orientation meeting to try the different coffee in bars, and find a place that we like to go to regularly. I imagined doing this in the mornings before class, and ended up frequenting Caffe Brasiliano, right down the road from our classroom. I decided that I like cappuccino the best, then, after sampling it at many different bars, decided that Caffe Brasiliano had the best. And, the location could not have been more convenient. Stopping in at a bar is an essential part of a day in Italy to experience the coffee, as well as the people around you.

I made sure to notice little things in our neighborhood, Santa Maria in Cappella, which would be interesting to do blog posts about. Our apartment and surrounding streets and buildings is the quintessential Italian neighborhood, but the beauty is hard to describe without actually seeing it for yourself. With my posts, I tried to highlight special parts of the neighborhood, like the history of our building, the local grocery market, and my favorite restaurant, to paint a picture for readers of the place where we live.

Combining old and new was probably my broadest theme, and was the one that I noticed everywhere in the city. Every day I could not believe that I was living in Rome, one of the most ancient cities in the world. Everything that I see around me has been built up over time, with a rich history behind it. Modern life exists within this historical place, causing a continual transition from old to new. The past is always combined with the present.

Organizing my thoughts and experiences into blogs not only gave me extra incentive to notice specific things day to day, but also gave me the opportunity to organize these thoughts and experiences. I know I can look back on my blog and have clearer memories of this wonderful city and my time here.

Saying Goodbye to Santa Maria in Cappella

I am truly going to miss coming home to Santa Maria in Cappella every day. The sun shining on the trees and flowers in the courtyard when I come home in the evening from a long day in the city is an image that I will never forget. I like saying “ciao” to the doorman every time I leave and come back. It was so convenient of being able to walk down the street to the grocery store, go get gelato, or have dinner at a great restaurant, in one of the most enviable neighborhoods in the entire city. Romans could not believe that I live in Trastevere as a student, and the amazement in their expressions made me that much more appreciative to live here.

I will always have vivid memories of our apartment and our neighborhood after having spent seven weeks here. It really did start to feel like home, especially during the last few weeks. Even though seven weeks is a short time, I will remember Santa Maria in Cappella as a place where I felt comfortable and familiar. Before coming here, I never thought that I would ever feel this way in a foreign city, and I am so glad that I had this experience.

The Last of My Favorite Cappuccino

Today was our last day of class, and the last time I will walk past Caffé Brasiliano, right down the street. As usual, I was so hot from walking by the time I got there, but I had a few minutes to spare before class started, so I went in to get breakfast one last time. I was surprised to see a few of the locals that frequent the caffé in the morning, so I guess the heat does not deter them from having coffee regularly. Even so, it was just too hot to get a cappuccino, but I got a delicious croissant with chocolate instead.
But, when our mid-class break came, I could not resist. I went back to the caffé and got my cappuccino. It was just a delicious as usual, and I enjoyed every sip. The ritual of having a daily cappuccino is something I will really miss when I am home.

Cobble Stone Sidewalks

(A cobble stone street in Trastevere)

As I walk down the many cobble stone streets and sidewalks all over Rome, I cannot imagine how many other people have walked there before me. The same, dark gray stones are used for every path, and they are smooth and worn down. On the first day we arrived, we got out of the taxi beside our apartment with our luggage. As I dragged my heavy, rolling suitcase across the stones I thought how impractical they are for sidewalks and streets. It took a little while to get used to walking on them. Italians seem to have no problem walking on the cobble stones, even in high heels. They even expertly handle bicycles, though riding a bike over a bumpy path does not look that comfortable. I was so impressed with myself that I had not fallen once on these uneven streets, even with all the rain we had. I have slipped and slid around plenty of times, but never took a major spill.
On Monday, my luck changed. I was walking downhill on the cobble stone sidewalk around the Forum, on the way to the Colosseum, where the path wraps around to the right. As I walked along chatting, my flip flop caught on a stone, sending me flying forward. I landed on the sidewalk hard, especially since the fall was downhill. Needless to say, I was mortified. I quickly got up and tried to brush it off, though my hands and my knee really, really hurt. The tourists around me stared and a policeman across the street yelled, “are you O.K.??”, causing me to be even more embarrassed.
Now I completely understand why Italians do not wear flip flops. I guess after walking these cobble stone streets for years, they know the appropriate footwear, though I am sure they take a spill every once in a while.

The Santa Maria Spy

During my entire stay here, I have felt comfortable and at-home living in Santa Maria in Cappella. The quiet atmosphere, beautiful courtyard, and friendly doormen make our living situation very pleasant and feel very safe (not to mention we have to go through three locked doors to get inside our apartment). However, it has been somewhat uncomfortable lately, due to one of the residents of the hospice across the courtyard from us. One night, two girls from Ohio State who live on the first floor came up to our apartment on the third floor. They informed us that a resident has been spying on our apartments with binoculars from across the courtyard, and sometimes filming with a video camera. Another resident was kind enough to tell the girls this, speaking only a little English while motioning spying with binoculars and filming. After getting this information, a couple girls realized that they had seen a man looking over here on occasion. In the past few days, some have even caught him in the act of spying! This man does not seem dangerous, and, chances are, someone is looking after him in the hospice. Even so, I told our landlord. She thought this story was amusing and assured us that he is just an older man, living in hospice care, and could not be dangerous. The next group to live here will probably have new curtains, she said. But, in the meantime, I do not feel quite as comfortable as I have felt living here.

Hot Weather and Hot Coffee

Finally, after what has seemed like non-stop rain, Rome is scorching hot. I have been waiting to experience the infamous Roman summer heat, and now, it is here in full force. I will gladly take hot weather over rain any day, but the heat does come with some drawbacks when living in a city. For example, the fifteen to twenty minute walk to school at 8:30a.m. has sometimes been chilly, especially during the first few weeks. Normally, I would wear a sweatshirt or scarf. Then, particularly when it was raining, I would enjoy stepping into a bar before class to get a warm cappuccino. I love the ritual of getting a cappuccino every morning, especially at my favorite place, Caffe Basiliano. This intense heat over the past week and a half has completely disrupted my morning bar routine. I swear that the heat makes the walk to class longer, as we drag our feet and try to stay on the shady side of the street. There is not normally enough time to stop and get breakfast, even if I wanted to. The worst part is that I have no desire for hot coffee before class after I am already overheated from walking. I miss my morning cappuccino, and Caffe Brasiliano, but overheating just is not worth it. If only I could get an iced-cappuccino!

Follow-up on San Luigi dei Francesi

Last week, I posted about the Church of San Luigi dei Francesi, where three famous Caravaggio paintings hang in one of the chapels. After visiting the Piazza Scala today, I had the perfect opportunity to visit the church, which was a short walk away. Unfortunately, I forgot my guidebook and went to find the church by myself. I could not remember the street name, but knew that it was about a block away from Piazza Navona. After asking two police officers (who gave me conflicting directions) and an American tourist, I found the church.
The nave of the church is roped off, so I strolled down the aisle to the right of the altar first, looking at the five chapels on the side. I circled back to the entrance, then down the aisle to the left of the altar. The three Caravaggio paintings are in the last chapel on the left, and I wanted to save the best for last. The rest of the church was beautiful, but I had my mind set on seeing these paintings.
I caught a glimpse of The Martyrdom of Saint Matthew first, as it hangs on the right wall of the chapel. As I got closer, I could see this painting as well as St. Matthew and the Angel and The Calling of Saint Matthew all at once. I have studies these paintings extensively in art history class, and I was completely impressed with them in real life. The colors are vivid, and the paintings’ placement next to each other makes them look even bolder.
I would definitely recommend seeing this church and these three paintings. Even if it is just a detour from visiting Piazza Navona, a quick stop inside is worth it.

Follow-up on Today's Walk

Our group walk today followed Courtney’s tour of markets. The walk that she outlined stopped first at the market in Testaccio, about two minutes away from our TAs’ apartments. I have visited this indoor market once before and it was the first market I went to in Rome. On my first visit, I walked away with about a pound of provolone cheese, when I only really wanted a piece, because asking for an amount in Italian is very confusing. The entire market is indoors, which provided a nice break from the sun. Monday was boiling hot, even when our group met at nine o’clock in the morning. We walked around the market, but did not take long. I was hesitant to buy anything that I might see later at another market. The stands mainly consisted of fruits and vegetables, cheeses, meats, and bread. A small selection of clothes, shoes, and bags is located near the entrance.

The second stop was at the market in Campo di Fiori. This outdoor market takes up the entire piazza with a much larger selection of produce and items to buy. I felt more comfortable browsing the different stands outdoors with many more people doing the same thing. This market is known for drawing in more tourists, probably because it covers a large space, in a well known piazza. The outdoor atmosphere entices locals and tourists to walk around and shop, or just look. After walking from end to end to get a feel for everything there was to offer, I was drawn to the tables of jewelry, scarves, and bags, then to the stands of Italia t-shirts. After getting a couple gifts for friends and family and a couple of grocery items for myself, I was satisfied with my market experience. I have not yet had the opportunity to go this market until now since we are usually in class when it is open in the morning, so I was happy to finally have the experience.

Jonkoping and Rome

My friend from Penn State, Gillian, visited me over the weekend. For the past seven weeks, she has been studying abroad in Jonkoping, Sweden, and has travelled to other northern European countries like Estonia, Denmark, Finland, and Norway. Jonkoping is a small city south of Stockholm, located on the edge of a large lake. As we walked around in Rome this weekend, Gillian was amazed at how old everything is in Rome – almost every building, church, and structure looks ancient. It was a huge culture shock compared to Sweden, she said, where the architecture is much more modern. Most of the buildings there have been built in the last century. There are a few sky scrapers, a lot of apartment complexes, and newer shops and restaurants.
(Image: Jonkoping, Sweden. http://www.sasnet.lu.se/bilder/jonkoping.jpg)

It was a lot of fun to show the city of Rome to Gillian and share her initial reactions to being here for the first time. Rome really is an ancient city, and I am still amazed by this, even after living here for weeks.

Santa Maria in Trastevere, Basilica San Pietro, and Scala Santa

Santa Maria in Trastevere, Basilica San Pietro, and Scala Santa are three churches in Rome to which people from the city, from Italy, and from all over the world make pilgrimage journeys. All three are famous Christian sites of worship for important reasons.

The Eyewitness Guide to Rome describes Santa Maria in Trastevere as “probably the first official Christian place of worship to be built in Rome” (212). Supposedly built in the 3rd century, the beautiful golden mosaics that decorate the outer façade and inner altar area date to the 12th century when Pope Innocent II had the church re-done in a Romanesque style. Santa Maria is a Christian and tourist focal point, especially in Trastevere. It may have been the first church dedicated to Mary, though this is according to legend.

St. Peter’s Basilica, probably the best known church in Rome and the main church of Roman Catholicism, is a major pilgrimage site. It took more than a century to build, beginning in the 15th century under the rule of Pope Julius II. Bernini’s gilded bronze baldacchino is a highlight of the interior. The 448 foot dome was designed by Michelangelo, and gives a fantastic view of the entire city of Rome from the top. The Piazza San Pietro, surrounded by the colonnade designed by Bernini, fills with thousands of people on religious holidays, Sundays, and Wednesdays to receive blessing from the Pope.

Scala Santa, or the holy staircase, consists of 28 stairs that have been believed (since the 7th century) to have been ascended by Christ. The original stairs were moved from Jerusalem to their site at the old Lateran Palace. The sacred stairs can only be climbed by people on their knees, a daunting task performed by devout Christians.

Walk to Three Pilgrimage Churches

Destinations: Santa Maria in Trastevere, St. Peter’s Basilica, and Scala Santa
- Start: Via S. Maria in Cappella
- Left on Via dei Genovesi
- Right on Vicolo Tabacchi
- Continue down Via C. Marmaggi
- Cross Viale Trastevere (the main road) onto Via dei Fratte di Trastevere
- Take the first right on Via dei Fienaroli
- Left on Via Arco S. Calisto, follow to Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere, where the church of Santa Maria in Trastevere is located
- Go north-east out of the piazza, through Piazza S. Apollonia
- Continue north to Via del Moro, following this road to Piazza Trilussa (right next to the Tiber River)
- Left on the Lungotevere (the road along the river)
- Follow this road past three bridges
- Left at the fourth bridge, Ponte Vittorio Emanuele II, onto Borgo Santo Spirito
- Right on Via SS Michele e Magno, which will put you into Piazza Pio XII
- The Basilica San Pietro will be on your left
- Take the main road out of the square, Via della Conciliazione
- Continue straight towards the river
- Veer right through Piazza Giovanni XXII to Lungotevere Vaticano
- Follow the road along the river past two bridges
- Cross the river at the third bridge, Ponte Cavour
- Ahead will be Piazza Porto di Ripetta, where the Ara Pacis will be in front of you
- Behind this is the Mausoleo Augusto
- Go around the Mausoleo to the left onto Via dei Pontefici
- Cross Via del Corso to Via della Croce
- Get on the Metro at Spagna (the Spanish Steps)
- Take the Metro to San Giovanni
- Back track on foot through the Giardini di Porta S. Giovanni towards Via Fontana, passing San Giovanni in Laterano on the left
- Scala Santa will be on the right

The Vatican Museums

The Vatican Museums in Vatican city holds one of the most valuable collections of art in the world. The collections are extensive, and cover a large time period in the history of art, from Egyptian and Assyrian art to modern religious art from the 19th and 20th centuries.

Four rooms decorated my Raphael are some of the main features of the Vatican Museums. Over the course of 16 years, from 1508 to 1524, Raphael worked for Pope Julius II painting frescoes in his private rooms. He covered up previously existing frescoes commissioned by Alexander VI who had been in power before Julius II. Raphael’s frescoes brought him fame, even though he died before their ultimate completion.

(Raphael's School of Athens, in the Raphael Rooms, http://www.rome.info/museums/vatican/raphael-rooms/raphael.jpg)

The Sistine Chapel is perhaps the most famous part of the Vatican Museums as it displays Michelangelo’s finest fresco painting. The walls of the chapel are decorated by him as well as various other famous artists of the 15th and 16th centuries. Michelangelo’s Last Judgment fresco on the wall of the altar is a stunning representation of souls rising to God or falling into the depths of hell.

(Michelangelo's Last Judgment from the Sistine Chapel, http://www.sacred-destinations.com/italy/images/vatican/sistine-chapel/last-judgment-wga-350.jpg)

The Sistine Ceiling, also by Michelangelo and painted between 1508 and 1512, is an immense undertaking. Michelangelo painted the entire ceiling from scaffolding. The two main scenes, the Creation of Adam and Fall of Man, are placed in the center. Surrounding panels show scenes from both the Old and New Testaments. The figures are unique with their muscular body types, and a modern restoration revealed the paintings’ brilliant colors.

(Michelangelo's Creation of Adam from the Sistine ceiling, http://static.howstuffworks.com/gif/sistine-chapel-michelangelo-paintings-5.jpg)

An admission fee is required to see the museums, except for the last Sunday of the month.

Hours: Mon-Sat, 8:45am-4:45pm, last admission at 3:20pm; last Sun of the month, 8:45-1:45pm, last admission at 12:20pm

(See Eyewitness Travel Guide: Rome)

San Luigi dei Francesi

The church of San Luigi dei Francesi, located in the Piazza of the same name, is the official French church in Rome. It is known for holding three famous paintings by the artist Caravaggio. These were his first three religious works, painted between 1597 and 1602, all depicting the subject of St. Matthew. The Calling of St. Matthew, the Martyrdom of St. Matthew, and St. Matthew and the Angel all hang in the fifth chapel on the left in the church, called the Contarelli Chapel. Cardinal Contarelli left an endowment and specific instructions for the decoration of this chapel. Though the Cardinal died in 1585, Caravaggio was not contracted to do the paintings until 1599. The artist Giuseppe Cesari was the first choice of the church to complete the paintings, but when he got tied up in other Papal commissions, Cardinal Del Monte, who was in charge of the money, suggested Caravaggio.

(The Calling of St. Matthew, http://virgo.bibl.u-szeged.hu/wm/paint/auth/caravaggio/calling/calling.jpg)

The Calling of St. Matthew, recognized as the most famous of the three works, depicts the Biblical story when Jesus, seeing the tax-collector Matthew at work, pointed to him and said “follow me”, and Matthew rose and followed him. Jesus’ hand in this painting resembles the hand in the Creation of Adam by Michelangelo in the Sistine Chapel.

(The Martyrdom of St. Matthew, http://www.albany.edu/scj/jcjpc/figures/st-matthew-martyr.jpg)

In all three paintings, Caravaggio uses dramatic chiaroscuro, or contrast between light and dark, to accentuate the dramatic nature of the subjects and highlight important parts of the painting.

(St. Matthew and the Angel, http://www.hobby-o.com/matthewinspirationlarge.jpg)

Hours: 8am-12:30pm, 3:30-7pm daily

No admission fee

(See Eyewitness Travel Guide: Rome)

Angels and Demons

Over the course of the semester we have been watching viewing films for one of our classes, Rhetoric of Film: Italian Cinema. The films are Italian, and most are black and white, filmed around the mid-20th century. The city of Rome provides a backdrop for these films, and in many of them it is easy to recognize famous sites, like the Pantheon. Because of Rome’s beauty and history, it has continued to be used as the setting for movies after those we have been watching in class.

We saw this first hand on Friday as we watched a scene for the movie Angels and Demons being shot. One end of Piazza Navona set the scene. A crowd gathered around to catch glimpses of Tom Hanks, the star of the film. All the scene entailed was Tom Hanks getting out of a police car, dressed in a suit, then walking with two police men toward the other side of the piazza and pointing at something ahead of him. The director, Ron Howard, ran back and forth during every take.

As I watch our films in class, I continually recognize sights that I have seen, decades later. Now I will have to go see Angels and Demons in the theater so I can see the Piazza Navona scene that I witnessed first hand.

Santa Maria in Trastevere

Though not located in the neighborhood closely surrounding our apartment, the church of Santa Maria in Trastevere is a short walk away in Piazza Santa Maria, across Viale de Trastevere from where we live. The influence of Santa Maria, the Virgin Mary, is everywhere in our area. Small shrines and paintings can be found on the buildings in our neighborhood and in many stores. On the way to visit the church we stopped in a cheese shop, where a statue of Mary stood on a shelf in the middle of all the cheese.

The Church of Santa Maria is the main attraction. It does not look very large from the outside, but the interior is spacious and beautifully decorated with gold mosaics. This church is known in Rome, and especially in Trastevere, as the city and its neighborhoods, including ours, built up around it over the centuries.

The Government of Boys Town

Visiting Boys Town and learning about how the boys govern themselves was an example of a true democratic system. I knew that the boys elected a leader from amongst their group to serve as President. During our visit, we sat inside their assembly hall to get a feel for how they run their meetings, headed by their elected President. Meetings are held three times a week in this hall – Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday. The building was set up like a forum with inclined benches encircling the room and a higher table for the President and officials on one side. No adults are allowed to speak during the meetings, though a few adults who work there are present. Their system also works well because their elected leader only holds his position for two month terms. This way, everyone has the chance to be the President if they want to, and those that are successful in their position can be re-elected many times, as long as their terms are not in succession. I was very impressed that these young boys, ages nine to eighteen, conduct meetings and govern themselves so successfully.

Boys Town

The Boys Town of Italy, which we will be visiting as a class on Friday, was founded in 1945 by an Irish priest, John Patrick-Abbing. The motto of this charity organization is to give previously homeless boys a "chance in life", and this is exactly what they strive to accomplish. Though adults oversee the fraternal community, the boys also govern themselves. In addition to learning and taking care of themselves, Boys Town Inc. aids other charitable organizations around the world, helping children, especially the homeless, from 18 countries.

I did not realize the global extent of the Boys Town organization. Their Spring 2008 newsletter alone (which can be found on the website) highlights charitable events in New York City and San Francisco which raised money for the cause of helping these children.

Even though the Boys Town website is very informational, I am looking forward to touring their town, seeing their living areas, and understanding how they organize and govern their community on a day to day basis.

(www.boystownofitaly.org)

Dante's Bar

During our ten minute breaks between morning classes, Dante’s bar is a quick, easy place to get some coffee or a snack. I have been there many times, and am familiar with the men who work behind the counter and the happy older woman who is always at the cash register. Yesterday, Carley and I stopped in. We both got two packs of a gum and a lollipop, totaling 2,90 euros, and I paid first. Carley paid second and the woman charged her 1,10 euros less! Carley goes through a pack of gum a day, so I guess she is a preferred customer. This just goes to show that going to the same bar regularly has its benefits, whether its some extra chocolate on your cappucino or a free pack of gum.

The Theater in Ostia Antica

My favorite area of the Ostia Antica ruins was the theater, constructed from 19-12 B.C. I thought this site was the most impressive not only because of its size (the original structure could hold 3,000 spectators), but also because it is still used today for performances. I did expect any area of the ruins to still be functional. To my further surprise, a group of ballet dancers were practicing for a performance on the stage when we were there. Being able to watch activity on the stage brought the theater out of the past and into the present. It is impressive that this theater was designed and constructed so well that it still draws performances and audiences to this day. I very much appreciate that shows are still put on here, rather than simply letting the theater sit, unused. As long as the area is used with care and not damaged, which it did not seem to be, I do not see any reason to discontinue its originally intended function.

The building was renovated multiple times throughout history. A renovation during the end of the 4th century blocked corridors to allow water to flood the stage area for aquatic displays. The most recent change to the theater is the outer, arched brick façade, constructed in 1927.

Villa in Bibbiena

Visiting Bibbiena, in Tuscany, was one of my favorite experiences in Italy so far. The countryside was even more beautiful than I imagined. A group of us stayed a night in the villa Nicole’s parents are renting for the week. The man who owns the property lives in one half of the house, and told us that his family has lived there for five generations. The closest building between the house and the town on the next hillside was a fifteenth century church. Bibbiena is a small town, and you can tell that family’s, like the renter’s, spend their entire lives here. I don’t blame them, it is the most beautiful place I have ever seen. There is a lot of new construction in the area, though, of villas for rent, some holding up to 20 people. The villa where we stayed felt like an actual home. The interior had been refurbished and the lawn was expertly manicured with an added pool and patio, but the feeling of old Tuscany was prevalent, making both the perfect home and vacation house.

Why Not Have A Glass of Wine in the Morning?

As I have mentioned, bars in Rome serve both coffee and alcoholic drinks. Either can be ordered at any time of the day, but there seems to be an unspoken rule that coffee is ordered in the morning, and wine and other alcoholic drinks are reserved for the afternoon and evening. By America’s standards, the afternoon is still sometimes a little early to casually have a drink. When I had breakfast in a bar in Venice this past weekend, these rules did not exist at all. A group of us spent about an hour in the bar, from about 10-11a.m., eating and then just relaxing, watching people come in and out. It did not take us long to notice that almost every customer that came up to the bar ordered a glass of red or white wine, quickly drank it as they stood there, paid, and left like this was something they do every day. Though Romans love wine, it would not be normal to see people drinking at the bar in the morning, but people in Venice seem to have a different attitude!

The History of Santa Maria in Cappella

I thought I knew the history of the building where we live, but after looking it up on the internet, I found some facts that I was unaware of. I heard that our building was an old monastery that was converted into a hospice. This made sense to me because I see elderly people in the courtyard almost every day and there always seems to be a few nuns around taking care of them. The building is three sided, wrapping around a central, square courtyard. The fourth side is a tall stone wall that blocks the courtyard from the sidewalk and street. Though the building is called Santa Maria, I never really considered it to be a church. When I looked it up, I found that it was a church, built in 1090 and dedicated to the Virgin Mary. "In Cappella" means "at the chapel" but the phrase was taken from the word "cuppelle", meaning barrells. The Guild of Barrellmakers took over the church in the 15th century, hence the name.

The building changed hands again after this - the sister-in-law of Pope Innocent X, Donna Olimpia Pamphilj, made the courtyard a playground, but her later relatives transformed the building and courtyard into an elderly home. It was the first home established in Rome, and it is amazing that it is still serving the same purpose today. Now that I know the history I feel even luckier to be living in such a beautiful place.

Cappucino Catastrophe

Though it is customary to order your coffee in the morning at the bar and stand there to drink it, sometimes I have to order it to-go. I know it's thirty eurocents more, but sometimes I don't feel like crowding around the bar with a bunch of other customers, trying not to spill my hot coffee everywhere. This morning, I was not in the mood and on top of it all, I was a little late for class. We stopped at a bar on the way to school which I have been to only once before. The lady who makes the coffee is a little snooty, but it's only one euro for a cappucino and a croissant. I ordered a cappucino to go (she was already getting annoyed) and got it in a plastic cup with a lid. I stirred some sugar in and when I pressed the lid back on, the bottom of the plastic cup had melted and the cup and coffee collapsed all over the counter! Hilary was nice enough to ask the woman for a new cup for me, but it was like she was asking for the biggest favor in the world. This is my second embarassing to-go cup experience, so I guess from now on I will have to drink my cappucino at the bar... or just go somewhere else.

Dinner Down the Street

Last night Nicole D, Nicole V, Ilana, Allison, and I went out to get dinner. It was the Roman holiday Republican Day, so we expected to walk around for a while and maybe find a pizza place that was open. To our surprise, we walked half a block down the street from our apartment and saw that a restaurant was open. We walk by this restaurant almost everyday but have never stopped to check it out. So, we sat down, ordered some red wine and pasta, and had a lot of fun. The two men who waited on our table spoke barely any English at all and wore gold crosses around their necks. We were so happy to have a real dinner, and they thought this was very amusing. We sat outside at the restaurant until the sun was almost down. The only other customers were a table of Italian women who ordered fruity drinks and chatted and painted their fingernails. It was a relaxed atmosphere, to say the least, and just what we all needed.

Caffe Brasiliano

The snack bar down the street from school, Caffe Brasiliano, is one of our favorite places to go for lunch. Almost every day, people from our program stop in to get a panini, a snack, or some coffee to pick us up betwen class. The first few times I went here were for lunch (I suggest the prosciutto and mozzerella sandwich), but the other morning I stopped in for coffee for the first time. The atmosphere was different than the lunch rush. Instead of a bunch of Penn State students having sandwiches, a number of men came in for breakfast, two with kids in tow. They must have either worked there, or been members of the family who owns the bar because they said hello to the man behind the register, walked behind the counter, and helped themselves to croissants. The same man is always at the register, but these people seemed to be just as comfortable as him. The next day I noticed a few family photos behind the counter and a baby bottle on one of the shelves (right in with the liquor bottles!). I like this bar even more now that I am starting to recognize who owns it and comes in regularly.

Directions to the Borghese Museum and the Villa Borghese

Starting at Piazza Venezia, look NW for the main road called Via Del Corso. This road is long and straight. The street includes awesome shopping and is a generally great environment. It will give you a real feel of the city. It is much easier to walk this road rather than take public transportation because there is not a close bus station, making buses less convenient. Walking to the bus station is not worth the time, or the euro for the trip.
Continue up the Corso all the way to Piazza del Popolo. About half way there you will pass a church called San Carlo al Corso on your left. Follow the Corso through Piazza del Popolo to Piazza Flaminio. You will have to walk up a winding hill to get to this specific piazza which is at the foot of the Villa Borghese. In order to get through the museum, take a stroll through Villa Borghese park following Viale del Murotorto. You will pass Galoppatoio and come to Piazzele Brasile. Continue in the same direction down Via Pinciana until you get to Viale dell’ Uccelliera, and make a left. This will take you right to the Borghese Gallery.

Reservations are mandatory to see the gallery. To find out more information about reservations and cost, visit http://www.ticketeria.it/ticketeria/borghese-eng.asp. In the gallery, the amazing art you will find is divided into two sections: a sculpture collection and picture gallery (collection of paintings). A few of the more important works included here are Bernini’s David, his Apollo and Daphne (his most famous sculpture), and Titian’s painting called Sacred and Profane Love. Within the two hours you are allowed here, Rick Steves suggest to spend at least an hour and a half in the ground floor sculpture gallery.

Within a four mile circumference in addition to the gallery and many other attractions, there is a zoo and schools of archeology. It may be quite enjoyable to cover this distance with a nice bike ride (bikes available to rent in the villa).

Directions from Termini to Capuchin Crypt

The Capuchin Crypt is located underneath the church of Santa Maria della Concezione. Four thousand skeletons of Capuchin friars are buried in the crypt. The friars constructed the site themselves, beginning in the late 17th century and continuing for over 100 years. The friars decorated the crypt with the bones in intricate patterns, creating a beautiful yet eerie atmosphere.

From Termini:
- From the Piazza del Cinquecento outside the Termini, take a left on Via del Viminale. Piazza della Republica will be directly on your right.
- Turn right on Via Agostino Depretris
- Cross Via Nazionale
- Continue straight on Via delle Quattro Fontane. You will see San Carlo Quattro Fontane on your right. Continue until you see the Piazza Barberini
- Go straight through the piazza to Via Vittorio Veneto
- Curve right. You will see Santa Maria della Concezione on your right
*Destination: Capuchin Crypt

Directions from Termini to Santa Maria in Cappella

Santa Maria in Cappella, the neighborhood and the topic of many of my blogs, is located in Travestere. The neighborhood is relatively small and made up of a maze of narrow streets. Many of the buildings are homes, but small shops, Tobacci stores, and markets can be found on almost every street. Restaurants, most of which have outdoor seating, are delicious and reasonably priced. This is a great place to live, but also an enjoyable visit.

From Termini:
- Starting at the Piazza del Cinquecento, outside of the Termini, go SW on Via Cavour
- Continue 5 blocks, Santa Maria Maggiore will be on your left
- Turn right on Via Panisperna and continue until the end
- Veer east until you see Colonna Traiana (Trajan's Column)
- You will approach Piazza Venezia, veer SW around the piazza
- Turn left on Via Teatro Marcello
- Turn right on Via del Foro Piscaro
- Take a quick left on Via de Ottavia
- Cross the Ponte Fabricio, cross over the island, and cross the second half of the river over the Pontve Cestio
- Take an immediate left on Lungotevere Alberteschi
- Turn right on Via Ripense
- Turn left on Via P. Peretti
*Destination: Santa Maria in Cappella

San Clemente

San Clemente, on Via San Giovanni in Laterano, is both religious and historical. It looks like a small church from the street. The church's structure as well as the majority of the interior was built in 1908 (except for the choir enclosure from the 6th century). A 4th century church lies below this structure and underneath this are ancient buildings from the 2nd century, now completely underground. It feels as if you are stepping down through time as you descent to the dimly lit ancient stone buildings from the much more ornate church above. In comparison to the ancient rooms and temples, the 12th century church seems almost modern. It is amazing that this same site was used and built over for ten centuries, and that the current structure has stood for another nine.

Al Forno di Travestere

Grocery shopping here is a different experience than at home. The stores are organized differently and there are only a few chain "supermarkets". The other day at Standa, one of the larger chain markets, the cashier got angry with me when I asked about a price. Then, she accidently rang up an item that did not belong to the person behind me. Instead of simply taking the item off, she grabbed the plastic conveyer belt separater and waved it in the person's face with exasperation.

The small market down the street from our apartment is a much more enjoyable and convenient place to shop. It is called Al Forno di Travestere, located on Via dei Genovesi. One older man at the counter rang up my groceries, another helped me bag, and a third stood chatting with the other two. Having interactions, like buying things in a store, with non-English speaking Italians is often frustrating. These older men spoke no English at all and could tell I was American, but instead of getting frustrated, they smiled and gave me a friendly "grazie, ciao!"

(Via dei Genovesi, where the market is located)

Galleria Doria Pamphilj

Courtney, Ilana, Hilary, Carley, Nicole D, and I went to the Galleria Doria Pamphilj on Wednesday after class. This is the gallery that is directly next to our classroom, but the front door is around the block off the Via del Corso.
Some quick background on the gallery: The Pamphilj family are descendants from Pope Innocent X, whose famous portrait by Velasquez hangs in the gallery. Members of the family still live in the building, just across the interior courtyard. The hallways and rooms in the gallery used to be their day to day living space. It is a beautiful palace and hundreds of paintings are displayed on the walls. The architecture and decoration of the interior is a work of art in itself. Unfortunately, no pictures are allowed, it just has to be committed to memory.


It was amazing that the family used to live in the rooms that you walk through on the tour. Some of the smaller living rooms are roped off. They are still set up with the original furniture, but in one room, the "yellow room", I noticed elements of modern-day life among the 18th century decor. A cordless phone sat on one of the sidetables, a few small bookcases were filled with relatively new looking art books and encyclopedias, and framed family photographs (both black and white and color) sit on the mantle piece. No information is available as to whether or not the family uses this room and its modern conveniences, but the everyday modern things that decorate our houses today stood out in the lavish, palatial room.

Tickets are only 5,60 euros for students, and I definitely recommend using the audio guide, narrated by the prince himself.

Giolitti's

I finally made it to Giolitti's to taste the best gelato in Rome. I don't know how I have been here for 10 days and have not gone! As expected, it was the best gelato, but the actual place was not what I expected. Other gelato places I have been to or seen are small and many serve only gelato. Giolitti's looks like an enormous bar with coffee, drinks and sandwiches to the right, a case of sweets to the left, the gelato counter toward the back, and a beautiful room of tables beyond that.

Hilary told me that you have to order and pay first at the register, then show your receipt to get gelato. No one working speaks English, and I would have had no idea about the ordering system if she hadn't told me. There were more gelato flavors than I have ever seen, and the cones were stacked on the counter all the way up to the ceiling. Apparently, you are not allowed to sit down in the fancy room...maybe you have to order a whole meal to do that... so we sat outside at a table. Not only was this the best gelato, but it was also the nicest bar, or caffe, I have been to.

At Home

Nicole and I went out to do a few errands in our neighborhood the other night. There are stores scattered all along the streets, so we just walked around, looking for a Tobacci shop and a place to get a snack. I like wandering around the neighborhood and discovering new places, and even entirely new streets, that I haven't noticed yet. The neighborhood is one of the few places here where I can walk without a map and know that I can find my way back. Most of the time, you can walk in the general direction of our apartment, recognize the streets, and then spot our church-like doorway from down the road. We found what we needed, a phone card and some chocolate (of course) and in the process, found a new snack bar with sandwiches, pastries, and wine. Being able to leave the apartment and feel familiar with the neigborhood makes me feel at home here.

Renoir in Rome

When I think about my topic of old and new aspects of Rome and how they combine with each other, I never considered that museums could fall into this category. Going to the Renoir exhibit made me realize that gathering artwork and placing it in a museum is placing the old in a new context. A large amount, but not all of Renoir's paintings were gathered together for this exhibit, held at the Complesso del Vittoriano (next to the Forum). The paintings were displayed in a two story gallery. The second story consisted of a balcony-like area that could be reached from steps on the first level, so the space had high ceilings and was very open. I took a picture from the second story before I realized pictures weren't allowed.

The works exhibited were completed over the course of Renoir's lifetime and are usually dispersed among museums and other collections. Bringing them together in one exhibit brings the past into the present for museum-goers to experience all at once.

I definitely recommend stopping in to see this exhibit. It takes only about an hour and is a nice break from the hot sun. It costs 7,50 euros for a student admission and the exhibit is showing until june 29.

The Closest Thing to Maggiano's

Just as there are different types of places at home to grab a drink and something for lunch, the bars around the city also vary in price and selection. The smaller, table-less bars are ideal for quickly getting a coffee on the way to class or work. When you're in the mood to sit and have lunch in the middle of the day while you are out walking, a larger establishment can give you the perfect lunchtime atmosphere. Sit-down bars line the roads, sometimes fice in a row, and the host stands outside and beckons people (especially American tourists) to come in and have "pizza, soda, or cappucino." The more tourist-geared bars have English speaking hosts to draw you in. Today I noticed the "Bar Pantheon" directly across the piazza from the Pantheon, which looks more like a restuarant with its large awning and sign. It is directly directly at tourists, visiting the Pantheon and looking for a place to eat. Logically, the Bar Pantheon would be the best place to go. It is like the Maggiano's of bars - fancier, bigger, and more expensive than some others of its kind, bringing in groups of people looking for a good, convenient meal. The first time I visited the Pantheon, we had lunch at the Di Rienzo caffe, directly down the street to the right. It was the most delicious pasta I have had yet in Rome. There were much fewer tourists dining there and it was much less expensive than the Bar Pantheon, and had a view of the Pantheon to the left. If I were Rick Steves, this would be the spot I would pick to have lunch after visiting the Pantheon.

Local Color

I am starting to get more of a feel for how our neighborhood changes throughout the day. On Saturday evening we went to get dinner again, stopping in a restaurant to get a panini to-go rather than looking for a market. We took a different way back home and found many streets where local people gather to have a drink and a bite to eat at this time of the evening. Instead of sitting and having dinner like the tourists I saw the other day, they stand outside and talk with each other. I was so envious, and wished I spoke the language so I could use the neighborhood in the way that they do. I also noticed more types of shops, like an antique furniture store, a book shop, and a wedding dress shop. It is hard to tell where some doors lead without going in because not every store has a sign outside. The tiny doors and windows only let passers-by on the street get a quick glimpse inside. Residences are also very private. I can tell that this neighborhood houses a lot of people, but the narrow streets and private doors to shops and homes create a quiet, calm atmosphere.

Coffee or Wine?

I went to a few bars over the course of the week and still have not found one that is my favorite. Every coffee I drink is better than the last, and I am still exploring different spots.

Standing is a must when you are just stopping in to get coffee or breakfast because you will be charged extra for sitting. In the mornings it is usually too busy to sit anyway. People on their way to work simply stop in, order at the counter, and stand and sip their coffee. Some drink quickly and leave, while others chat with their neighbor.
In the afternoon, sitting outside at a bar and having a flass of wine is well worth the extra time and money. I love the atmosphere of a bar, especially in the afternoon. I know I am in the right place when I can choose to have either coffee or wine at almost any time of day.

The Roman Forum in a Modern World

On Thursday we visited the Roman Forum. Though we didn't tour the inside, it was easy to see all of the ancient monuments that make up this site of ruins. As we walked around the perimeter of the ruins it was interesting to see the sharp contrast of the many groups of tourists and modern life that bustled around the area. I didn't realize that most of the ruins, architecture, and art of Rome would be in such close proximity to everyday activity of the city. Cars and tour buses roar down the street on one side of you, while on your other side, the ancient Roman Forum stands quietly.

Three espresso to go

I absolutely love coffee and have been looking forward to tasting Roman coffee and familiarizing myself with the routine of going to a bar, or Roman cafe. After my first experience going into a bar, I decided it would be a good choice for a theme. Bars serve coffee, food, wine, and other drinks. I first went to a bar on the way to orientation on Monday. I was exhausted and jet lagged and thought it would be a good idea to order "three espresso to go". Picturing a grande Starbucks espresso, I was not expecting to be handed three, tiny styrofoam cups of espresso shots. I had to drink one quickly and carry the other two, managing to spill everywhere. Now I know to only order one espresso, no matter how tired I am!

Santa Maria in Cappella

Our apartment in the old monastery of Santa Maria in Cappella is a beautiful neighborhood in Travestere. One night this week a few of us went to get something for dinner in the many small shops near S. Maria. We went around 7 o'clock, only to discover that most stores were closed and the neighborhood was quiet. Most people walking around and eating at the restaurants were tourists. I'm not sure yet if our neighborhood is geared toward tourism or the local residents. I decided that our neighborhood will be the place I will continually observe throughout the semester.

Small Town, Big City

The city is organized in a way that is completely different from what I am used to. The blocks of city streets are not numbered and roads are not laid out in a parallel or perpendicular structure. Instead, roads twist and turn and every “city block” created within them is different from the next. Some roads surround shops that line the sidewalk. Others filter into enclosed spaces, such as piazzas where restaurants, markets, and famous sights stand. These places are enclosed spaces in themselves. For example, restaurants are normally small with tables outdoors that are surrounded by plants or a fence. This creates the feeling of intimate space in the midst of the city around it. Sometimes it seems like you are in a smaller town rather than one of the major cities in the world. In contrast, walking down a narrow street can often lead you to an enormous area that could not be seen just around the corner.

Visiting the Trevi Fountain the other day, we found our way through the streets, turned the corner and were be finally confronted with a huge piazza and an incredibly enormous structure. Streets meet at the sight of the fountain from multiple directions, so the fountain cannot be spotted until you are actually in the piazza. When we had almost found it, we heard the roar of the water before we could actually spot the fountain. Though the piazza is an enormous space, the monumentality of the fountain is enhanced by the surrounding buildings, which seem to close off the rest of the city to the site. It seems like this fountain has been standing here forever, and the city built up around it over time, crowding it from all sides. Everything around the structure is centered around it, and the piazza is its own separate place, devoted to the fountain it holds. Places in the city are designed in a way that focuses your attention on that specific space, whether the area is as large as a piazza or as small as restaurant or bar.

The Combination of Old and New in Rome

Welcome to my Rome blog!

For those of you reading from outside of the CAS program, I will be posting over the next seven weeks about my travels, things I have discovered, and themes that I continually notice as I study and live in Rome. This is a beautiful and ancient city that is unlike any city in the U.S.

Everyday experiences that we take for granted at home are appreciated differently here. As you walk from place to place in the city there are ancient monuments, ruins, amazing architecture, and the frenzy of Italian life all around. One of the first things I noticed was how apparent it is that the city has been in a continual state of change for thousands of years. At the same time, though, new, modern aspects of life are incorporated into the culture in a way that accommodates the past and what already exists. The first example that I noticed was the transportation system, specifically the vehicles, traffic patterns, and extremely narrow streets. The buildings and many of the roads were in place before cars were one of the primary modes of transportation. Instead of rebuilding roads and constructing buildings to accommodate travel as we do in the U.S., cars were made small to fit in narrow streets and many people drive vespas.
Aspects of modern life seem to be almost out of place here because the majority of the city has existed for hundreds or thousands of years, and functioned without the influence of what we consider modern life. I am sure that I will continue to notice the combination of old and new over the next few weeks.

I apologize in advance for the lack of pictures in my first few blogs. My computer adapter blew out so I am unable to upload my pictures and will be posting from other computers. As soon as it is fixed I will put up pictures!